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Led by Arch McCallum for Cottonwood Gulch
Flocks and Rocks Trek, June 6-14, 2020
Arch McCallum |
On the first Flocks and Rocks Trek in 2017, Arch discusses the evolution of red, tubular flowers, which serve to attract hummingbird pollinators, with John Mayer and John Bloch. |
My innate interest in birds received early encouragement from my parents and my uncle, who were all accomplished naturalists. Growing up in Dillon, South Carolina, I spent weekends in the woods at the family farm and looked forward eagerly to occasional Sunday afternoon trips to "the beach," two weeks every summer in the North Carolina mountains, and Carolina Bird Club meetings, where I received abundant encouragement from adult birders and ornithologists, especially the Chamberlain brothers of Charleston, S.C. After college, a stint in the navy, and a few misadventures, I found myself working as the resident naturalist at the base camp of the Cottonwood Gulch Foundation, in the Zuni Mountains of New Mexico. My bird studies there, over a 14-year period, led to a Ph.D. at the University of New Mexico, Birds of North America accounts of the Flammulated Owl and the Mountain Chickadee, and other publications.
My interest in southeastern Arizona was crystallized by winter residency in the Chiricahuas, 1977-78, and 1978-79, where I was among many who saw the first Eared Trogon (now Eared Quetzal) documented in the U.S. I returned to the Chiricahuas for a sabbatical in 1999-2000.
Field Guide page from article in Birding. |
The first trek for girls, called the Turquoise Trail Expedition, rolled out in 1942. Note the "Commissary Truck" in the middle of the caravan. |
Looking up for Rose-throated Becards along the De Anza Trail. |
This adventure will begin at the Albuquerque NM Airport and venture southwest into the White Mountains of Arizona, Aldo Leopold's first duty station with the U.S. Forest Service, and the inspiration for some of the most poignant images in his classic A Sand County Almanac. The White Mountains are volcanic in origin, as befits their locations along the Jemez lineament, but to get to them we must journey down the Rio Grande rift for 70 miles on Day 1. Both the rift and the lineament are familiar to some of us from our 2017 trek. These very disparate geologic features produce plenty of habitat diversity, which gives us an immense variety of plants and animals to meet. We spend our first two nights in Water Canyon, a well-watered gash in the back side of a fault block mountain range (the Magdalenas) created when the Rio Grande rift subsided 22,000 feet in the Tertiary. We'll spend the cool morning hours of Day 2 exploring wetlands and desert at Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, and then we'll find more cool air by driving to the top of the Magdalenas in the afternoon. Day 3 takes us 150 miles west along US 60 (an "ocean to ocean" highway), past the Sawtooth Mountains and aptly name Pie Town to the center of Leopold's Arizona world, Escudilla Mountain. We'll note the remains of the fire-ravaged spruce-fir forest on the mountain slopes and camp in the luxurious grassland on the "loop" road 56, about 1000 ft below and three miles south of the summit of Escudilla Mountain. The springs there will fuel a chorus of frogs, and perhaps rails, as we get used to the brightest starscape we have ever seen. We'll read about the grizzly who once roamed this mountain and how it inspired Leopold's classic essay "Thinking Like a Mountain," a paean to his Land Ethic. The next day those unbothered by the thin air at 9,000 feet can ascend the three miles to the fire look-out and share the panoramic views. Day 5 will take us to nearby Springerville for provisions and up into the White Mountains for a look at the vast subalpine grasslands that inspired Leopold's essay "On Top." Perhaps we'll find Frijole Cienega or "the boneyard." Then we'll return to "civilization" at Alpine and drive a few miles south to Hannagan Meadow, another spruce-fir site. From the campground one can look west onto the fire-ravaged slopes of the Black River drainage. Not far to the east is the Blue River drainage, into which we descend on Day 6. The contrast is dramatic. Hannagan could be in Colorado. Down below, Blue River Crossing is a northern extension of the canyon ecosystem of southeastern Arizona. The whole area is an Arizona Important Bird Area. We'll look for Common Black Hawks there, and drive down the canyon as far as we can get, looking for coatis and imagining the wolf restoration that would have made Leopold glad, but was vigorously resisted by local ranchers. On Day 8 we head homeward, stopping in the Plains of San Agustin to view Pleistocene lake shores and to visit the otherworldly Very Large Array. We spend that night at Water Canyon again, before our short early-morning drive to the ABQ airport on Day 9. |
Looking from the edge of the Gila Wilderness toward the White Mountains. The smoke is from a controlled burn near Mt. Baldy. Escudilla Mountain is the high point at far right on the horizon. The summit of Escudilla Mountain, as seen from the Terry Loop, where we will camp, within earshot of Profanity Tank, at the interface of the luxuriant subalpoine grasslands and the spruce-fir forest. One of our stops will be at Hannagan Meadows Campground, where perhaps we will be visited by "camp robbers" aka Canada Jays, members of an isolated population on an evolutionary island. When we visit the Blue River IBA in June, the vegetation will be lush and the birds abundant and conspicuous. |
The Latest in Commissary Trucks |
For this first year (2020) we will begin with a turbo-charged BTA 1.0, which will take you to see and hear Elegant Trogons, Flammulated Owls
(an old specialty of mine), Mexican Chickadees, half a dozen species of hummingbirds,
Greater Pewees, Tropical Kingbirds, Gray Hawks, and a slew of other species that one must come to the Deep Southwest to find. We will also try to find
a few of the specialties that are the bailiwick of BTA 2.0. Along the way I will present chalk-talks
on the ecology of the region and the
nitty-gritty of range expansion. If you ask, I will
explain why bird names change so often, how the revolution in molecular biology has revolutionized our understanding of the genealogy of birds,
why female Black-chinned and Ruby-throated Hummingbirds are identical but the males aren't, and a few dozen other stories from my years of teaching
college-level ornithology. Bird Trek Arizona 1.0 starts
at the Tucson Airport on Saturday, May 16, 2020, and ends there on Sunday, May 24, 2020. You can sign up now by following the link above. You can also
get a lot more information about the trek on that page. If you have a question for me, send your email to birdtrek at archmccallum.com.
This trek explores the mountain islands and desert seas of southeastern Arizona at a time of maximal bird activity, just before the summer heat sets in. After meeting up at the Tucson airport we will set up camp in the saguaros of Tucson Mountain Park, where we will meet the common birds of the Sonoran Desert while enjoying afternoon libations and hors d'oeuvres. The next morning we will comb the desert for Rufous-winged Sparrows and Elf Owl nests while checking off the rest of the desert specialties. We'll also hop into the vehicles, if necessary, for a quick trip to a known Harris's Hawk territory. After lunch we will visit the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, whose outstanding exhibits will explain desert ecology to us. They also have a number of live animal exhibits, including a hummingbird enclosure in which Costa's Hummingbirds will be nesting. For supper we will pack a picnic and ascend into the pines of Mt. Lemmon to see the only Mountain Chickadees of our trip. We'll wait around for the Flammulated Owls to start hooting before returning to camp and the Elf Owl chorus. On day 3 (May 6) we will drive 180 miles to Portal, gateway to the enchanted Chiricahua Mountains. We'll stop for lunch in Texas Canyon, whose enormous granite boulders will remind us of the 1950s westerns they played a role in. East of there we will begin to see Chihuahuan Ravens and their nests on power poles. We'll roll into Cave Creek Canyon in mid-afternoon and set up camp for a two-night stand. While supper is being prepared, we'll meet Mexican Jay, Bridled Titmouse, Acorn Woodpecker, and a host of other species that are characteristic of the wooded canyons of southeastern Arizona and Mexico. Screech-owls may serenade us at this site. The next day will be a full one, with an optional pre-breakfast trip into the desert for the dawn chorus, a morning hike (2 miles round-trip) up South Fork for Elegant Trogon and Arizona Woodpecker (and Apache Fox Squirrel), and an afternoon visit to the feeders at the Portal Store and elsewhere in Portal. On day 5 (May 8) we will break camp and take the Paradise "shortcut" (looking for Juniper Titmouse and Black-chinned Sparrow) to the feeders at the Southwestern Research Station. Then we make the short ascent to Rustler Park Campground, where the new specialty birds are Mexican Chickadee, Red-faced Warbler, Olive Warbler, Greater Pewee, and, after dark, Mexican Whip-poor-will. Some of the House Wrens are of the "brown-throated"variety, which some authorities regard as a separate species. We'll also add such common Rocky Mountain species as Pygmy Nuthatch, Broad-tailed Hummingbird, and Cordilleran Flycatcher to our lists. On day 6 we move to the Huachuca Mountains (100 miles), but we will stop by Chiricahua National Monument on the way for a look at the strange rock formations, and the many Canyon Wrens that inhabit them. If 2019's Five-striped Sparrow has returned to Guindani Canyon near Kartchner Caverns State Park, we will stop there and try for him as well. We camp that night at Reef Townsite Campground, sure to have lots of Buff-breasted Flycatchers, with the extra-limital Tufted Flycatcher a possibility. We'll have an incredible view of the desert lowlands from this 7200-foot precipice, and may hear Mountain Pygmy-Owl at dusk and dawn. Early on day 7 we descend from the Reef for a morning at the famous Ramsey Canyon Preserve. Individuals can sit and watch feeders, or take a short hike up the canyon under the towering sycamores. Let's hope that the pair of Tufted Flycatchers we saw in 2018 will be back to inspire the longer hike up their neck of the woods. In the afternoon we move on to Patagonia (50 miles). After a quick stop at the Roadside Rest for our first chance of Varied Bunting (we may be too early for them) and Thick-billed Kingbird, we'll stop by the Paton Hummer Preserve and have up-close looks at Gambel's Quails and White-winged Doves under the feeders, as well as Violet-crowned and Broad-billed Hummingbirds. We move on to Patagonia Lake State Park, where we camp in luxury, with a lake and hot showers at our disposal. We'll see if the Rufous-winged Sparrow is still defending the bath-house, and comb the lakeshore for White-faced Ibis, Neotropic Cormorant, and Mexican Duck, along with better known waterbirds. We will also hope for a return of the pair of rare Black-capped Gnatcatchers that nested successfully in 2019. For life-listers, our last day may be the most productive. We will make an early-morning trip to de Anza Trail, which runs through the luxuriant cottonwood bosque of the Santa Cruz River. We should encounter Gray Hawk, Northern Beardless Tyrannulet, Thick-billed and Tropical Kingbirds, and possibly Rose-throated Becard, Sinaloa Wren, and Rufous-backed Robin. The afternoon will be mop-up time. We will go wherever we need to in the Nogales-Patagonia area to pick up species we have missed, including a sewage plant (for whistling-ducks), the Roadside Rest, Paton's, and Blue Heaven Road. The next morning we pack up, take the short drive to the Tucson airport, and say good-bye. If interest is high, though, an extension to look for ultra-rarities may be arrangeable. Buff-collared Nightjar, anyone? |
We will visit four major habitat-types: (1) Desert, home of the Elf Owl and Gilded Flicker. We will visit four major habitat-types: (2) Montane Conifer Forest, home of the Mexican Chickadee and Red-faced Warbler. We will visit four major habitat-types: (3) Canyon Woodland, home of the Elegant Trogon and Arizona Woodpecker. We will visit four major habitat-types: 4) Riparian Gallery Forest, home of the Rose-throated Becard and Gray Hawk. |